Sewing machine for covering reenforced eyelets



EYELETSA Ef B. ALLEN.

INVENTOR WITNESSES:

maa

ATTORNEY E'. a. ALLEN.

Jian. z3, 4923.

SEWING MACHINE Fon CoveRnNG REENFoRcED EYELE'rs.

. Fl LED JULY 3. 3 SHEETS-SHEET 2 am. NN

WlTNEssEs:

ATTORNEY E. B. ALLEN. SEWING MACHINE FoR CovERlNG REENFoRcl-:D EYELETs.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 3 Fl LED JULY 1919.

INVENTOR WITNESSES: WLM m ATTORNEY Patented Jan. 23, 1923.'

entran star,

innen EDARD B. ALLEN, OE BRIDGEPORT, CONNECTICUT, .lSSIIIGJSI'ORy TO THE SINGEBMANU- FACTURING (lDlltlPtlYVZy` A CORPORATION 0F NEW JERSEY.

SEWING Macnrnn ron covnsrne REENFORCED nvnnn'rs.

Application led July 3, 1919. Serial No. 308,570.

To all whom t may conce/m Be it known that I, EDWARD l ALLEN, a citizen of the United States, residing at Bridgeport, in the county of Fairfield and State of Connecticut, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing Machine for Covering Reenforced Eyelets, of Which the following is a specification, reference being had. therein to the accompanying drawings.

This invention relates to machines of the buttonhole sewing type and has for a partie ular object to provide a machine for covering` reenforced eyelets in fabric material.

In corset manufacture, for example, itis customary to insert roivs of metallic eyelets in the corset'halves for reception of the usual lacing strings. The appearance of these eyelets is oft-en objected to, particularly on corsets of the more expensive grades, and it is found desirable to cover such eyelets With an attractive overseam of silk or other thread .of appropriate color.

Buttonhole or eyelet stitching machines, as commonly constructed, are unsuitable for this Work as they are provided with a cutter or punch for cutting a hole in the material immediately prior or subsequent to thc sciving operation, i. e., While the Work is held clamped in the machine. Such a cutter would be likely to strike and damage the metal eyelet and Would serve no useful purpose in connection With Work of the char acter contemplated, as the eyelet holes are already formed in the material before it is presented to the machine. To merely omit the usual cutting devices of prior machines would not render them` suitable for this Work as it will be appreciated that only with great ditliculty andv with the exercise of painstaking care can Work be placed in the machine by handso that the yeyelet to be covered will exactly register With the` stitch-forming mechanism. lf such registry is not obtained prior to stitching, the sewing needle or needles will strike the metal or other eyelet reinforcing material and will bebroken or deflected, thus damaging the machine' or ruining the product.

A more general object of the invention may therefore be said to be the provision of machine for covering reenforced eyelets which will not require the exercise of extreme care on the part'of the operator in present ing-the Work to the machine, but Which Will. within limits, automatically take care. of Work Which is not placed by the operator exactly in register'y with the stitch-forming mechanism.

In buttonhole machines lia-ving a Workholder and buttonhole cutterA which operate to clamp and cutthe Work out of sewing position and then move it into seiving position, it is more difficult to secure the exact register of the cut ho-le with the `stitch-forming mechanism than in machines which clamp and cut the Work in sevving posit-ion. Also, more time is required to move the Work-holder into and out of sewing position `by the usual gear driven feed-Wheel than is required to move the buttonhole cutting mechanism into and out of register with the stitchforming mechanism by the usual quick acting cutter-shaft.

The invention Ihas for a further object the provision of a machine which will center and cover the reenforced eyelets in a minimum time and with a maximum degree of accuracy. i

To the attainment of the above and other objects, as will hereinafter appear, the in-A vention contemplates the provision of a Work positioning or registering implement which operates automatically, prior to closure of the Work-clamp, to shift inaccie rately positioned Work to correct position in register with the stitch-forming mechanism. While such an implement may be constructed in a variety of forms and be operated in various Ways, l, for convenience, make use of a Work positioning pin having a tapering or rounded extremity which, when projected to serving position and into an inaccurateiy placed eyelet Will, by virtue of its tapering nose, cause said eyelet to be shifted to a position concentric with the Vaxis of said pin and in exact registry with the stitch-forming mechanism. After the eyelet is registered with the stitch-forming mechanism by the pin, the usual vvork clamps are closed and the pin is Withdrawn and retracted to an out-of-the-Way position, after which the stitchrforming mechanism is started and the stitches are laid around the eyelet in the usual manner.

In the accompanying drawings Which illustrate the invention in its preferred emloodiment., Fig. l is a side elevation of .the

machine with the frame in section to show certain features of the internal mechanism. F ig. 2 is a horizontal sectional view through the standard of the machine vshowing the work-positioning and holding devices in plan. Fig. 3 is a side elevation of the workpositioning or registering mechanism at a period of the cycle just prior to complete closure of the work-clamps.-` Fig. f1 is a view on an enlarged scale of the work-positioning implement and parts vadju-cent the stitching point of the machine at a period of tl e cycle when the clamps are full;v closed and the work-positioning implement is about to be withdrawn. Fig. 5 is a perspective view of the work-positioning implement. Fig. 6 is a perspective View of an auxiliary implement preferably used in cooperation with the work-positioning implement shown in Fig. 5 to support the eyelet during the shift thereof. Fig. 7 is'an elevation of a modi; fied form of work-positioning implement, and Fig. 8 is a plan view of a reenforced eyelet in process of being covered.

In the preferred embodiment of the iuvention, as illustrated, the machine frame comprises the hollow rectangular base 1 from which rises the standard 2 of the bracket-arm 3 terminating in the ,hollow head a.

The stitclrforming mechanism of the ma chine is preferably constructed substantially in accordance with the disclosure of my Putent No. 1,162,207, of November S0, 1915., and comprises an upper eye-pointed needle 5 which is carried bythe needle-bar 6 journaled in the head 4 for the usual reciprocating and axial turning movements. The re= eiprocating movements are derived from the usual pitman 7 and cranlopin 8 at the forward end of the needle-bar actuating shaft 9 extending within and lengthwise of the bracket-arm 3. This shaft carries a bevel gear 9u which meshes with a companion rearv 10 of twice its size fixed to the upper end of the vertical shaft 11 journaled within the standard 2 and at its lower endcarrvinfr a bevel gear 12 which meshes with the driving gear 13 on the main or sewing shaft 14- ]ournaled within and lengthwise of the hollow base 1.

. The needle 5 cooperates with the usual lower stitch-forming instrumentalities including the curved needle 15 carried bv the usual rotary turret mounted to turn within the curb 16 about a vertical axis coincident with the axis of the needle-bar 6. During the sewing operation the needle-bar and turret receive simultaneous step-bv-step turning movements from the upper and lower sector-gearsl? and 18, respectively.

These gears are connected in the usual lmanner to a vertical shaft 19 to move in unison and are operated from the feedwlieel 20, all as more fully set forth in my said Patent No. 1,162,207, and in my Patent No. 1,346,.- 102, 0f July is, i920.

The work-holder is of the well known travelling type which clamps the work in stitching position and receives longitudinal and lateral components of motion from the feed-wheel` of the machine durinfr the sew ing operation. While any suitabie type of worlrholder may be used, l prefer to employ a work-holder constructed substantially in accordance with thedisclosure of my Pattent No. 1,334,640. March 23, 1920. Such a worloholder comprises a pair of lowei` clamping' plates 21, 21, which removably mounted on the usual cross slideplate 22 which, in turn, is carried by the longitudi nalslide-f'rame 23. A

The lower clampingy plates 21 carry the brackets 24- within which are fulcrumed at 25 the rearward ends of the upper clamping arms 26 having at their forward ends the pivotally mounted clamping feet 27 which clamp the work against the plates 21. The clamping feet 2T have opposed semi-circular cutaway portions defining a circular opening 27 for the stitching or covering of an eyelet in a position directly above the usual throat-plate or Vbutton 2S carried by the lower needle-supporting turret.

It is understood that the feed-wheel has in its upper face two cam-grooves 29 and 30 which operate through the usual lever connections 29 and 30', such as disclosed in my Patent No. 1,039,241 of Seltembe' 241 1912" to impart the necessary lateral and longitudinal components of motion to the worlff holder, such components being so chosen in the present instance that the work-holder is moved in a substantially circular path. Step-bystep rotary motion is imparted to the feed-wheel through the usual gear conw nections 31, Fig. l, with the star-wheel which is driven by the diametrically opposed pins i3 at the lower end of the shaft 11, as more fully disclosed in my said Patent No. 1,346,102. l

The present machine preferably embodies an auxiliary shaft liwhich performs a single rotation prior to sewing, and another auxiliary shaft which performs a single rotation subsequent to sewing. These shafts and the controlling connections therewith are preferablyY constructed substantially in accordance with the disclosure of my said Patent No. 1,346,102; the first mentioned.

auxiliary shaft 34 being described as the cutter shaft7 in said application, and being controlled bv means of the usual clutch device 341 and clutch controlling lever 8&1 pivoted on the machine frame at 3117 for movement toward and away from the clutch device 534i. As the present machine is designed to operate upon work having previ ously formed and reenforced eyelet holes Itherein., there is no need for hol@ Cutting ico` mechanism and the shaft 34 Aand levers 36 and $37 used in my previous machine to cut a hole in the material are used in the present machine :tor centering o-r registering the previously formed hole with the stitchlorming mechanism.

The shaft 34 carries the usual cams 38 and 39 which cooperate respectively with the rearward ends'of the levers 36 and 37 to-rcclr the latter about their common l'ulcrum 40 in the travelling;- 'ulcrum-bloclr 4l mounted to slide longitudinally of the bed l in the usual manner, as disclosed in my ljatent No. 1,048,786 ot December 3l, 1912. The upper lever 36, instead ot carrying at its tornf'ard end the usual buttonliole cutting knife, is provided in the presentinstance with a cylindrical pin 42 having a diameter slightly ess than that ot the reeniiorced eyelet holes which the machine is adapted to handle. This pin has a tapering extremity which rmay be rounded as shown at` 42 in Figs. 4

and 5, or conically pointed as shown at 42b in Fig. 7. Mounted on the lower lever 257 in cooperative relation with the pin 42 is a ivorli-supiliorting element 43'having an a perture 44r surrounded by an annular Worl-supporting surface 45 upon which the eyelet e rests as the pin 42 is beingprojected into said eyelet Jor the purpose of centering` it. The usual cutter-advancing' and retractmg cam of my prior machines is utilized inthe present machine to advance and retractthe fiilcrum-blocl; 4l to move the work center in;r implement 42 with al translatory or travelline` movement from retracted position remote from the stitch-forming mechanism to an advanced position inv register with the stitch-forming' mechanism. This cam is designated by the numeral 46 andoperates upon theusual follower 47 at the rearward end of the link 48 which is slotted to en'ibrace the shalt 34 and at its forward end is connected at 49, Fig. 2*, with the l'ulcrumblock 4l.. y i

The auxiliary sha-ft 34 also carries the iisual clamp-closing' cam 50 which liits the rearward end` of the clamp-closing lever 51 fulcrumed at 52 upon a bracket 53 rigidly carried by the standard 2, The forward end of the clampclosing lever'is positioned over the arm54 which is lined to one of the alined clamp-closing rock-shafts 55 common `to Work-holders of the present type; such rockshafts being connected by the usual fork and pin device 55. VVlien'the lever is depressed, the cams 56 on the rock-shafts 55 are turned so as to depress the clamp-arms 26 and force the clampingfeet 27 into gripping relation With the Work.

.The machine lis provided with the stop-` motion s of Well known construction and with the usual controlling; mechanism for throwing the stop-motion to running posi` tion as the shaft 34 is completing its single ,l.346.`l 02. and as theyY are not cla rotation. The machine is,lso provided with mechanism tor starting` the second auailiarysliaiit 255 when the stop-motion operates to stop the machine after the sewing is completed. rlfnese various devies are constructed substantially in accordance with the disclosure ol my said Patent io.

'i spetnereol cilically herein further description is believed to be unnecessary.

The machine is also preferably equipped with the thread-cutting mechanism disclosed in my copending application lerial No. 283,603, filed lvlarcli 19, 19M), and with the linger-release meclianisn'i 'lor tripiinn the machine into action as disclosed in my said Patent No. 1,334,640. Such oevices, hoiv ever, form no part ofthe present invention.

ln the operation of the present machine, thework is placed under the raised cla1nping leet 27 by hand; the opera-tor using somejudpgment in locating the eyelet to be covered approximately centrally over the small round buttonv or needlc-throat 'l he machine then started by pressing;` down ing the latter With `the stitch-forming mechanism. lt Will be understood that il the eyelet is located eccentrically to the button 28 by the operator, the pin 42 Will impart a side shift to the eyelet as the pointed nose 42a of the pin enters the latter. In the usual buttonhole' machine it is customary to close the clamps before the cutte.i'leveis are advanced and closed to cut the buttonhole. ln the present instance. however. the socalled cutter levers are used -for :i work-Y shifti'ngf purpose andthe clamp-closing cani 50 is accordingly retarded upon the shalt 34 so that it Will not iully elevate the rear end of the lever 5l to close the clamps until after the levers 36 and 37 have been fully closed to center the Work.` .il iter the clamps are closed. the levers 86 and 37 are opened and retracted to a position remote from the stitch-forming; instrumentalities.

ln the present machine the button 28 may be used by the operator as a sight in locating the reentorced eyclet-hole With the necessary degree ot approximate accuracy. such button or the relatively small needle-hole therein beine; plainly visible through the the eyelet-hole when the latter is nearly centered. Il? the eyelet-hole is not located by the operatorivith a` suliicient degree ot` approximate accuracy5 the centeringpin will crush one side of the eyelet and will not operate to shift the eyelet laterally to an exact registering position. It would be much more difficult for the operator to center the eye-letshole by using the raised clamping llO feet as a sight, as for example in machines which clamp the work out of stitching position, inasmuch. as such feet are spaced vertically above the hole and the line of vision of the operator is materially inclined to the vertical. llilhere, in the present machine the needle-throat or button 28, which is in contact with the under surface of the work, .may be used as a sight, no allowance or mental guess need be madeby the operator due to the fact that the line of vision is inclined to the vertical. The eyelet-hole is simply placed centrally over and in contact with the button.

During the last part of the single rotation of the shaftl 34, the stitch-forming mechanism is tripped into laction in the usual manner and operates to cover the eyelet e in the body fabric as shown in Fig. 8, the upper needle 5 making the depth stitches and the lower needle 15 passing upwardly through the eyelet to form the overedge or covering stitches. The throatplate 28 is tilted forwardly during the advance of the work-positioning implements 42 and 4-3 to permit the element` i3 to occupy a position in register with the stitchforming mechanism; such tilting throatplate being an old and common feature of my prior machines, as disclosed for example in myPatent No. 1,162,207.

While l have shown thel presentinvention as embodied in a machine having various features constructed substantially in accordance with the disclosures of my said .prior patents and pending applications, it

is to be understood that the invention is not limited in its application to machines of a particular type. The important consideraation is the provision of means for registering the hole in the material with the stitchforming mechanism prior to the closure of the work-clamp.

.Having thus set forth the nature of the invention, what I claim herein. is

l. In a sewing machine, in combination, overedge stitch-forming mechanism, a workholder, means for. relatively moving the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holder to sew around and cover an eyelet hole in the material, a travelling pivoted work centering device normally remote from the work-holder, and means for imparting a translatory component of motion -to said device to move it into register with. the work-holder and a pivotal component of motion to bring it into engagement vwith the eyelet to shift the latter into register with the stitch-forming mechanism..

2. ln a sewing machine, in combinaion, stitch-forming mechanism, a work-clamp, feeding mechanism for relatively moving the stitch-forming mechanism and workclampto sew around and cover a reenforced eyeletv holein the work, an auxiliary shaft with controlling means for causing it to perform a single rotation only preparatory tov each stitching operation, and mea-ns actustitch-forming mechanism, a ,work-clam),

feeding mechanism 'for relatively moving the stitch-forming mechanism. and workclamp to sew around and cover a reenforced eyelet hole inthe work, an auxiliary shaft with controlling means for causing it to perform a single rotation only preparatory to each stitchingoperation, and means actuated by said shaft for centering the eyelet hole rela-tively to the stitch-forming mechanism.

4. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a work-clamp, feeding mechanism for relatively moving the stitch-forming mechanism and work-clamp to sew around and cover a reenforced eyelet hole inthe work, an. auxiliary shaft with controlling' means for causing it to perform a single rotation only preparatory to each stitching operation, an eyelet centering pin with means for supportingit in an inactive position remote from the stitch-forming mechanism, means actuated by said shaft for advancing said pin `into register with the stitch-forming mechanism and projecting it into the eyelet hole in the work to center the latter, and means for closing the work-clamp upon the centered work.

5. ln a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, work-clamp,

feeding mechanism for relatively moving the stitch-forming mechanism and workclamp to sew around vand cover a reenforced eyelet hole in the work, an auxiliary shaft with controlling means forA causing it to perform a single rotation only preparatory to each stitching operation, a. travelling fulcrum block, a lever fulcrumed on said block, an eyelet centering pin carried at the forward end of said lever, a cam'on said auxiliary shaft with connections for shifting said fulcrum block to move the pin to sewing position, a second cam on said shaft for tilting said lever to center the eyelet, and a third cam onI said shaft with connections for closing the work-clamp upon the centered eyelet.

6. In a sewing machine, in combination, upper and lower stitch-forming instrumentalities, a sewing shaft with connections for actuating said instrumentalities, an auxiliary shaft with controlling means for causinfr it to perform a single rotation only preparatory to sewing, a work centering device, andoperative connections Vbetween said device and said auxiliary shaft.

7 In work centering mechanism. for eyelet covering sewing machines, the combination with a pointed and endwise movable eyeiet centering pin of an aper-tured element adapted to receive said pin and to support the eyelet While it is being centered.

8. in Work centering mechanism for eyelet covering sewing machines, in combinetion, a pointed and endwise movable eyelet centering pin, means for supporting said eyelet during entry by said pin, a lever carrying said, pin, a travelling fnlcruln block 'for said lever, an actuating` shaft and means carried by said shaft for shifting said fulcrum block and for tilting said lever.

9. ln Work centering mechanism for eyelet covering sewing machines, in comb-ination, a pointed and enclwise movable eyelet centering pin, an element for supporting said eyelet during entry hy said pin, e pei? levers respectively cerrying` said pin and element, an actuating shaft, and means csirried by said shaft for tilting seid levers.

l0. ln work centering mechanism for eyelet coveringsewing` machines, in combination, a pointed and endwise movable eyelet centering pin, an element for supporting' said eyelet during entry by said pin, a pair of levers respectively carrying' said pin and element, a travellingv fiile-rum nlccl for seid levers, an actuating shaft, and means ceri'ied by said shaft for shifting said 'nlcrnin block and for tilting said levers.

ln testimony whereof, l have signed my name to this specification.

EDWARD B. ALLEN. 

